Lookouts of the Mena & Oden Ranger Districts, Arkansas


Looking east from the Talimena National Scenic Byway in October 2015

Fire towers are one of the U.S. Forest Service's most widely recognized icons, second only to Smokey Bear. In the 1940s there were close to 4000 fire towers in the National Forests, but today they number less than 1000. By the late 1980s most fire towers were decommissioned in favor of aerial detection. Once there were 43 lookouts on the Ouachita National Forest in Arkansas, and today only six remain. Here in the Mena and Oden Districts, eleven fire towers once stood vigil over the forest. They included: Rich Mountain (still standing), Cossatot, Tall Peak, still standing, (Polk County, Bee Mountain, Wolf Pinnacle, Buck Knob, Lone Pine Mountain and Abbot Mountain. In Montgomery County there was  Muddy Mountain (another photo), Gaston Mountain, High Peak (signal tower), Slatington Mountain and Vanderslice Mountain is south of the Union Hill Church East of Story (34°38'59.63"N 93°30'25.47"W), you can still drive up there and find the old concrete footers. Today, only Rich Mountain, Bee Mountain and Tall Peak Fire Towers remain standing. map map The land was deemed not suitable for agriculture but useful for timber. Approx. 75% of Montgomery County is national forest and is one fifth of the Ouachita National Forest, which was established to protect the streams and rivers and to ensure a supply of timber in the future. Over the years the US Forest Services policies changed regarding public access, clear-cutting and waster management. The fire lookout tower at Pigeon Roost Mountain was built in 1929.

Gaston Mtn 9 miles west of Mt. Ida and about 6 miles sw of pencil Bluff. it is a 4-legged steel structure with a 45' cabin on top, and is 70 feet in height, removed.


Buck Knob Tower, Scott County, from 1933-1934 Arkansas Civilian Conservation Corps Pictorial Review.
Color photo ONF archived 1959. Removed.


Slatington Fire Tower built by the CCC in 1933

 

Arkansas Lookouts
High peaks in Montgomery Co.
Benchmarks in Montgomery Co.

Rich Mountain Tower on The Lookout

    Imagine it's 1923. Amos Egger, his wife Grace, and their three children are at home in Rich Mountain Tower. Amos, a fire lookout for the Forest Service scans the horizon for forest fires while his wife single-handedly digs a well. Until the well is completed, she and her husband hand water in canvas bags from a spring more than a quarter mile away. And when groceries run low, the family heads down the mountain on foot ; a two and one half mile, to the nearest store.
Like lookout nationwide, the Egger family played a critical role in detecting forest fires. When Amos was out fighting a fire or attending to his other duties, Grace would fill in at the watch, all the while tending her children. The Egger's stayed warm with only a camp stove for heat; comfortably weathering sudden and severe storms. In fact, Amos kept an ax inside the cabin to chip ice away from the door so it could be opened following the storms. Amos died in 1968. Grace died in 1980.
    The first observation tower on Rich Mountain consisted of a pine tree with a platform. It was replaced in 1910 with a wooden fire tower. The tower manned by Mr. Amos Egger from 1923 to 1926. He and his family lived in a small crude dwelling under the fire tower. A few years later the family moved into a three room cottage built west of the tower.
    In 1924, the wooden tower was replaced with a metal tower measuring 7ft by 7ft. A third residence was constructed in 1937 followed by a latrine in 1940. The latrine was still standing when I was there in October 2015.
    A third tower was constructed in 1954. It, too, consisted of a metal cab; however, it measured 14ft by 14ft and stood 65ft high. The tower was taken out of service in the mid 1970s. The fire tower is open on weekend afternoons from Memorial Day in May through Veterans Day in November. Volunteer staff give you a tour. A restroom and picnic tables are available for visitor use. An interpretive sign discusses the history of the tower. Elevation: 2681 feet. Second highest peak in Arkansas.


They call it The Latrine.


Parking lot at the Rich Mountain Lookout Tower. The rock wall looks like CCC work.


58 feet tower.

The Hickorynut Mountain fire tower no longer exists

The Hickory Nut Mountain vista /picnic area off Hwy 270, 13 miles east of Mt. Ida or 23 miles west of Hot Springs. Look for the turn to Hickory Nut Mountain Rd, approx. 1.3 miles west of the Garland/Montgomery county line, in Montgomery Co. The road ends at 4.2 miles at the vista overlook. The road climbs up the hill and take the left fork at 1.0 mile. At 3.5 miles is a sign on your left for the picnic area. Note of the sign pointing to the Old Fire Tower spur. After only a .15 miles or 10 minute hike on the spur you will arrive at the old Forest Service fire tower site, which includes the concrete anchors of the tower, the foundation to the fire tower watcher’s cabin, a water cistern, and the two National Geological Survey medallions installed in 1953. Altitude: 1416ft. Just a little further up the road from the picnic area is the Hickory Mountain Vista Overlook with views of Lake Ouachita. Especially beautiful during autumn! Map. pano. video. Lake Ouachita is at an elevation of 578ft and has more than 200 islands and covers 40,000 acres.

Near Story, east, map, 360° views of lake and the Ouachita Mountains from an elevation of 1075ft asl. At the west end of a east-west ridge.

Lake Ouachita from the north side of the lake Oct. 2015. Muddy Creek in centre of photo, runs into Lake Ouachita. The new bridge across the Hwy 27 at Washita at the start of the lake just to the left of the tall shrub was visible from the vista here. Turkey vultures soaring, use thermals, rarely flap their wings. They are very common in Montgomery Co. often seen in groups cleaning up dead kills: raccoons and opossums. They use to be seen roosting at night on the old cedar fence posts, one to a post, but now farmers tend to use the t-posts so the vultures now roost in trees in flocks.


Photo of SW footing. The lookout consisted of a lookout house about 15 feet square supported by four steel legs and rose to a height of about 47.5ft. The only thing left of the forest service lookout tower is the forestry road in and the four concrete footings.  Two National Geological Survey medallions installed in 1956. I didn't find the survey markers, it is in the centre.


Smooth Sumac, common, occurs in all 48 states. Browsed by deer. The leaves turn a variety of orange, red and yellows in the autumn. Often seen in open or shaded areas along roadsides.

 
Lightning strikes are a common danger when at highest point. Three trees by the track have recently hit by lightning and are dying. Explains why there isn't any trees on top only shrubs.


The most likely area for a lightning strike is toward higher elevations and tall objects. Where lightning has struck a tree in the past, it will likely hit again. A long vertical scar running down the trunk of the tree and pieces of bark scattered around the ground are both common signs the tree has been struck by lightning.

Arkansas Fire Lookouts
                
            Buck Knob - not standing. Photos of Buck Knob Tower taken in 1959 and 1966 show a square cap.
            Gaston Lookout Tower -long gone. 419m asl. Latitude: 34°34'8.36"  Longitude: -93°47'1.73"
            High Peak Tower - long gone. 5 miles north of Caddo Gap and 5 miles south of Mt. Ida and 4 miles NE of Norman. The tower was a 4 legged structure with a square, metal/glass enclosed, lookout house on top. The height of the structure was 70ft. to the eaves with the gable being 3 ft making an overall height of 73ft. N 34° 28.367 W 093° 36.334. The footings still remain. Has a terrific veiw.
    Slatington 1933, CCC not standing, metal frame use discontinued in early 1960s
    Tall Peak Fire Tower: Elevation: 2292'. 1930s, CCC, standing, stone base, wooden, inactive, restored, access from Shady Lake via the 6 hour, 5 mile, strenuous, Tall Peak Trail. 

The Bull was built at its current location in 1942. It was staffed every year until 1964, then staffed by volunteers intermittently until the 1980s. “If you were assigned to ‘The Bull,’ you hiked 16 miles from the end of the road to the lookout,” wrote Bud Unruh, who staffed the lookout in the 1940s. “After the packer unloaded your personal items and a month’s supply of grub, he was gone and there you were, alone for at least two months of the fire season. “You would probably see one more person, the packer about August 1st with more grub supplies, and then again in early September to move you out.” You come out of the forest at The Bull and all of a sudden you can see every major Cascade Peak. Lightning is a major cause of forest fires.


The US Forest Service Caddo/Womble District Office on the east side of Mt Ida has a sketch hanging on the wall "Bull of the Woods Lookout" Mt. Hood National Forest.


Photo from the Heritage House Museum in Mt. Ida.


Oak Mountain Observatory, Ouachita National Forest, Saline County. No longer in existence. From Hot Springs take State Hwy 7 north for 37 miles. turn east on Forest Rd 132 and continue 6.8 miles.

Bench mark : a mark on a permanent object indicating elevation and serving as a reference in topographic surveys.

 


Jerry Shields writes articles "Hittin' the Trails..." for the Montgomery County News, sometimes, of local interest. In January and February 2019 he covered the history of Hickory Nut Mountain. The summit is 1,416ft. The 100ft steel tower was built in 1939, inside steel stairwell and a 7x7ft observation room atop the tower. The tower was dismantled in 1979.

About eighty years ago a team of USFS personnel pushed a rough road up the east slope of Hickory Nut Mountain through huge boulders, hardwoods and rugged terrain to construct one of the Watcher's Towers later known as fire towers, and a small cabin for the watcher to live in while on duty. The site was used for nearly fifty years and abandoned in the 1950s as planes and then satellites replaced the manned fire towers. During the construction of the LOVIT the Traildogs found several of the concrete piers used to anchor the fire tower near the bottom of the south slope and found the old road to the tower completely covered in brambles, vines, and new growth trees. They cleared and dug a spur 800ft trail up to the tower site (a 10minute hike). Jerry wrote" At the fire tower site we began clearing brambles, bushes and downed trees while hopefully herding a vast collection of ticks and chiggers over the backside of the mountain." While clearing at the old tower site they found two tower anchors, the stone 8x12 foundation for the watcher's cabin, and the US Coast & Geodetic Survey medallion from 1956 near the site of the old cabin and an old apple tree. They aslo discovered a 3'x3" native stone in-the-wild stove / oven rock with an iron sheet as a cook-top, which Ellen, in Idaho, daughter of an old Watcher there, wrote that that her father had built a safe distance from the wooden cabin. Ellen shared her parents spent their honeymoon on the mountain. They utilized a small spring for their water supply. Her uncle and cousin would deliver supplies to the tower in an old pickup truck that bounced up the roughed track in axle high ruts to deliver the supplies in good or bad weather.

Bill and Wynemia, of Mt Ida, were visiting the Vista when Jerry was there and Bill said he helped with the construction of the Vista and following its completion was assigned as one of the tower watchers before transferring to the timber management team during a long career with the Forest Service. [I see there is a Bill Cobb and wife Wynemia of Mount Ida]

The Vista offers a panoramic unobstructed views of Lake Oucahita and one of the finest sites to star gaze or watch eagles or turkey buzzards. The road is pretty rough, and many would like to see it paved. Jerry wrote the Vista was constructed over fifty years ago by the Forest Service. The final mile of the 4.2 mile road USFS RD 50 from US Highway 270 required significant applications of dynamite to breach the rocky ridge atop the mountain. The old sand filled walls of the old explosive storage building sits almost unnoticed just off the east side of the road. The USFS team created a broad parking area at the Vista site surrounded with beautiful sandstone walls and a covered observation deck complete with restrooms for public use. As time past funds for the upkeep of the vista and road dwindled making the trip to the vista by car more an adventure. Then thirty years ago a traveling band of homeless vagrants set up camp on the vista and decided the wood roofed observation deck would make good firewood. The band was banished but the damage was done. Within the next year the vandalized restrooms were closed. Graffiti became a problem and vandals were ripping stones from the wall. Over the next several years the USFS periodically repaired the walls replacing the stones that had been tossed over the walls and cleaned off the graffiti. They also annually graded the gravel road. The small campground to the left before you get to the vista was decommissioned and left open as a day use picnic area. The LOVIT trail began in 2005 and reached the summit of Hickory Nut Mountain in 2007.

Photos taken early Oct. 2015 by OW.
Ouachita Pinnacle -Garland Co.

Montgomery Co. ArkansasGenWeb Project