This city is situated upon Sections 10 and 15, Township 20 north, Range 26 west, in the northwestern part of the county, and upon the head-waters of Leatherwood Creek, a tributary of White River. It is nine miles from the Missouri line.
The Springs -- There are forty-two springs within the corporate limits of the city. First in importance, in the volume of its waters and the number of cures attributed to it, is the Basin Spring, so called from a circular depression eighteen inches in diameter and a foot deep in the solid limestone rock, in which a portion of the water from the cliff above was received. Twelve feet below this there was originally another basin, of similar shape, but much larger. Both have been destroyed in improving the street. On the same bench, northeast of the Basin, is the Sweet Spring, so called from the peculiar taste of its waters. Next in order and in importance to the Basin is Harding Spring. Congress Spring, in the immediate vicinity was discovered in blasting rocks, and its entire flow is utilized by the Crescent Hotel. Continuing on Spring Street, Crescent, the Twin Springs and Dairy Spring are successively passed. The latter was formerly utilized in the business which its name implies, but has been opened to the public, and is protected from contamination. The Hollis Spring is a half mile northwest of Dairy spring, and thence, southwest, are the Johnson and Oil Springs. The waters of the latter have peculiar oleaginous qualities. The Sycamore, Arsenic and several others are also in this vicinity. The Little Eureka east of the Basin, remains unchanged by the heaviest rain-fall. To the northeast, in the direction of the railroad station, are the Iron and Sulphur Springs, so named from their mineral qualities. The Magnetic Spring, whose waters have the property of rendering an ordinary piece of iron magnetic, is in this vicinity.
Careful analysis has demonstrated that the waters of the various springs differ but little in their essential elements. [Tables showing chemical analysis, volume, and temperature readings of the springs have been omitted from this transcription.]
Meteorological. -- The climatic conditions prevalent at Eureka Springs constitute one of the strongest considerations in its favor. The following table was compiled from original observations by A. H. Foote, Esq., for the year 1887:[Table omitted from this transcription.]
Mean temperature: Spring, 60.85; summer, 74.79; autumn, 58.01; winter, 42.08; annual, 58.93. Annual average precipitation, 32.79 inches. Relative humidity, 59.4 per cent. Average number of days per annum, clear, 209; fair, 90; cloudy, 66. Death rate per 1,000 living population, 10.33.
Discovery of Curative Properties [p.369] -- Thus located in that happy mean between the extreme cold of the Northwestern States and the tropical heat of the south, the springs existed to no purpose, apparently, until comparatively recent years. But the story of their discovery is no less interesting than the subsequent growth of the city has been remarkable.
The earliest traditional history connected with this part of the State is associated with the springs. There is reason to think that the "Fountain of Perpetual Youth," of which Ponce de Leon received such glowing accounts from the Indians of Florida, and for which he explored a large part of the southern country in vain, was none other than the Basin Spring, described with the powerful figures of the Indian language to a credulous listener. Prior to their migration westward, the Cherokees had a tradition of wonderful springs in the mountains far to the west of the "Father of Waters." They were said to possess virtue in the healing of various maladies. Years after the settlement of this tribe in Indian Territory it was their custom to hunt through the valley of White River, when such as were afflicted with various diseases drank the waters of these springs. It would also appear that similar knowledge was possessed by the savages of the north. Jean Baptiste, who mother was the daughter of a Sioux chief, related to Col. Gilbert Knapp, of Little Rock, the following tradition of that tribe: Many years ago, during a long and severe winter, many of them perished, and the chief, thinking to save the remainder, set out upon a journey south. They reached the forks of a great river, where game and corn abounded, and would have been supremely happy but for the fact that the daughter of this chief was blind, or almost so. Her father was told of a stream of water flowing through beds of rock to a natural basin, two days' journey distant, and prevailed upon by a medicine man to take his daughter thither. They remained six moons, when she was entirely cured. Hon. J. M. Richardson, of Carthage, Mo., in a conversation with "White Hair," chief of the Osage Indians, in 1847, learned of a remarkable spring in this vicinity, at which any Indian might be cured of sore eyes by washing and bathing a full moon. The basin was said to have been scooped out by "Black Dog," a chief, about seventy years before.
Dr. Alvah Jackson was the virtual discoverer of the springs, so far as their medicinal qualities and present wide reputation are concerned. One of the earliest settlers in this part of the county, he found little exercise in the practice of his profession among its sparse population, and turned his attention to the more exciting pleasures of the chase. It is related that while thus engaged, in the summer of 1858, he camped with his sons upon the present site of the Southern Hotel. One of the sons was suffering from a painful inflammation of the eyes, and having none of the usual remedies with him, his father directed him to bathe in the Basin Spring. He obeyed, from desperation rather than faith, and in the course of a few days was agreeably surprised at a favorable change in his condition. Having thoroughly satisfied himself of the efficacy of the water in such cases, the Doctor extended his practice in this direction. "Dr. Jackson's eye-water" acquired a wide reputation in this and adjoining States.
The springs first reached the dignity of a health resort toward the close of the Civil War. Dr. Jackson was frequently called upon by the sick and wounded of both armies, among whom was Maj. J. W. Cooper, of Cooper's battalion, Cherokee brigade, Confederate army. This officer contracted rheumatism and chronic malarial poison while campaigning in the Southwest, and having obtained leave of absence, he came to Dr. Jackson, in February, 1865. As this section was then occupied by the Federals it became necessary to take refuge in the mountain fastnesses; and a party, consisting of the Doctor, the Major, William Nichols, Sine Creeley, and two others, took refuge in the "rock house," near the present site of the Southern hotel. Here they lived in archaic simplicity, and in a few months the soldiers had completely recovered.
The curative properties of the springs were not utilized from this time until May, 1879, when Judge Sanders, of the county court, who suffered from erysipelas, was induced by Dr. Jackson to test their efficiency. He did so, and in ten weeks was completely cured. He was widely and favorably known throughout this section of the State, and the fact of his recovery induced others to follow his example in coming here. It is to this remarkable cure that the existence of the city is directly traceable.